| Richard
Avedon is regarded as one of the most influential
photographers of the 20th Century. In addition
to having made definitive portraits of the cultural
and political leaders of the last fifty years,
his work encompasses subjects as disparate as
fashion, the Civil Rights movement, and the fall
of the Berlin Wall.
His photographs have challenged
conventions and expectations in portraiture, documentary
and fashion photography. He has received a Master
of Photography Award from the International Center
of Photography and his work is among the collections
of MoMA and the Metropolitan Museum of Art, among
many others. His books include Observations, Nothing
Personal, In the American West, An Autobiography,
and most recently, THE SIXTIES.
Richard Avedon Dies at 81
By MADISON J. GRAY, Associated Press Writer
NEW YORK - Richard Avedon, the revolutionary
photographer who redefined fashion photography
as an art form while achieving critical acclaim
through his stark black-and-white portraits of
the powerful and celebrated, died Friday. He was
81.
Avedon suffered a brain hemorrhage last month
while on assignment in San Antonio, Texas, for
The New Yorker, taking pictures for a piece called
"On Democracy." He spent months on the
project, shooting politicians, delegates and citizens
from around the country.
He died at Methodist Hospital in San Antonio,
said Perri Dorset, a spokeswoman for the magazine.
"We've lost one of the great visual imaginations
of the last half century," said David Remnick,
editor of The New Yorker.
Avedon's influence on photography was immense,
and his sensuous fashion work helped create the
era of supermodels such as Naomi Campbell and
Cindy Crawford (news). But Avedon went in another
direction with his portrait work, shooting unsparing
and often unflattering shots of subjects from
Marilyn Monroe to Michael Moore.
"The results can be pitiless," Time
magazine critic Richard Lacayo once noted. "With
every wrinkle and sag set out in high relief,
even the mightiest plutocrat seems just one more
dwindling mortal."
As a Publishers Weekly review once noted, Avedon
helped create the cachet of celebrity —
if he took someone's picture, they must be famous.
His fun-loving, fantasy-inspiring approach helped
turn the fashion industry into a multibillion-dollar
business.
Scores of imitators struggled to replicate his
signature style, known simply as "The Avedon
Look."
"The world's most famous photographer,"
trumpeted a 2002 story on Avedon in The New York
Times. It was a title he wore for decades; back
in 1958, he was named one of the world's 10 finest
photographers by Popular Photography magazine.
Prestigious institutions as the Metropolitan Museum
of Art in New York City and the National Gallery
of Art in Washington, D.C., staged major Avedon
retrospectives, and his list of honors stretched
across more than 50 years. In 2003, he received
a National Arts Award for lifetime achievement.
During his career, Avedon worked for such photograph-driven
publications as Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, and
served as The New Yorker's first staff photographer.
His skill also earned him another title: He was
reputed to be the world's highest-paid photographer.
"He's the most wonderful man in the business
because he realizes that models are not just coat
hangers," famed model Suzy Parker once said.
An Avedon shot of Parker from 1959 was credited
with igniting the bikini boom.
Avedon said his view of the world was literally
affected by his nearsightedness. "I began
trying to create an out-of-focus world —
a heightened reality better than real, that suggests,
rather than tells you," he once told The
New Yorker in an interview.
Among Avedon's best-known work was "Nothing
Personal," a 1964 collection of unflattering
photographs of affluent Americans. He collaborated
with author James Baldwin, a former classmate
at the Bronx's DeWitt Clinton High School.
Time magazine called his photos of former President
Eisenhower, Adlai Stevenson, Marilyn Monroe and
other celebrities "a subtler, crueler instrument
of distortion than any caricaturist's pencil."
In 2002-03, his portrait work was again highlighted
at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He chose his
subjects among people who interested him, instead
of photographing people on commission. All were
shot against a white background, without any of
the typical poses or smiling faces.
Born in New York City in 1923, he experienced
a strict upbringing in which his father —
the founder of a dress shop called Avedon's Fifth
Avenue — made him account for every penny
of his five-cent weekly allowance.
In 1940, at age 17, Avedon dropped out of
high school to run errands for a photographic
company. Two years later he joined the U.S. Merchant
Marine, receiving a Rolleiflex camera as a going-away
gift from his father.
He was assigned to the Merchant Marine photo branch,
taking personnel identification photos. Later,
he went on several missions to photograph shipwrecks.
Following wartime service, Avedon became a professional
photographer for the tony Bonwit Teller department
stores, then moved to Harper's Bazaar, where he
stayed for two decades.
His breakthrough approach to fashion photography
included extravagant settings such as NASA (news
- web sites) launch pads and the pyramids of Egypt.
"There's always been a separation between
fashion and what I call my deeper work,"
Avedon said in a 1974 interview. "Fashion
is where I make my living. I'm not knocking it;
it's a pleasure to make a living that way. Then
there's the deeper pleasure of doing my portraits."
Avedon's reputation spread to Madison Avenue,
where advertisers ranging from Revlon to Douglas
Aircraft sought his services. By the mid-1960s,
his studio had upwards of $250,000 in annual billings.
He also developed relationships with some of the
world's most sought-after models including Dorian
Leigh; Dorothy Horan, best known as Dovima; Sunny
Harnett; and Leigh's younger sister, Suzy Parker.
Avedon left Harper's Bazaar in 1966 to join rival
Vogue as a staff photographer. In 1970, his work
filled several galleries at the Minneapolis Institute
of Arts in what was called the largest one-man
photo exhibit ever.
His early career was fictionalized in the 1957
Hollywood musical "Funny Face," starring
Fred Astaire (news) as the fashion photographer
"Dick Avery."
Avedon was married in 1944 to Dorcas Nowell,
a model known professionally as Doe Avedon. They
divorced after five years. In 1951, he married
Evelyn Franklin. The pair later separated.
"If a day goes by without my doing something
related to photography, it's as though I've neglected
something essential to my existence, as though
I had forgotten to wake up," he said in 1970.
"I know that the accident of my being a photographer
has made my life possible."
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